What the words mean, and which of the DMA architectures you are actually buying.
Start here if the vocabulary is new, and read these pages before you spend any money. They explain what a DMA setup actually is, what each of its four layers does, and which architecture you are choosing between. The rest of the library assumes you already know what they cover.
8 guidesBeginner 8
DMA terms come from FPGA development hardware: the FPGA is the card's chip, and firmware is the image flashed onto it. The DNA ID is that chip's serial, an MMAP is a memory layout file, and the DTB is the page-table address the reader must find. FT601 and CH347 are the card's two USB bridges, and EDID is the display description a fuser fakes.
An internal cheat runs inside the game, has the most features and leaves the largest local footprint. An external runs beside the game as a separate process on the same PC. DMA runs nothing cheat-related on the gaming PC, but it needs a PCIe card, a second PC and a longer setup.
Every DMA build needs a card in a free gaming-PC slot, firmware for that exact board, and a second Windows PC. A USB 3 data cable links them, while aim assistance adds an input device and a main-monitor overlay adds a fuser.
Optional layers, not the card, decide your DMA tier: tier one is radar only, with an entry card, used second PC and spare monitor. Tier two adds a mainstream card and an input device, and tier three adds a fuser and high-refresh display path.
A radar-only build needs a card, firmware, a second PC, a cable and a spare monitor, but no fuser or input device. Full ESP with aim adds both layers, two new failure types and a much longer setup, so radar suits most first builds.
Nothing transfers, because a single-PC licence, its configs and its one-click launch are all worthless in a DMA build. That build needs a card, firmware for that exact board, a second Windows machine and a clean USB 3 path before it draws anything.
Judge a seller on evidence: a public status board with down rows, a written refund policy and ticketed support that keeps a record. An old domain and reviews spread over months help, and a seller claiming undetectable will mislead you about other things too.
DMA is worth it if you play one supported title regularly, can spend an evening on setup and accept downtime after major patches. Do not buy if you want it working in ten minutes, play many titles casually or expect a guarantee against detection.